Drive from Delhi to Jaipur in the wee hours of a cold foggy December morning was interrupted intermittently by a mammoth caterpillar of trucks trailing for kilometers. I had never seen so many trucks in my life. Nothing noteworthy regarding the drive…though loved the parathas from the highway dhabas.
We had just 3 days to immerse in this kaleidoscope of magnificent historical sights, culture, art forms, exotic food and electric mix of people and elephants. For the past few weeks we have been wanting to be in Jaipur….to feel and experience the magic of its medieval charm.
The walled pink city was crowded with people, cars, rickshaws, two wheelers, jaywalkers and what not. The shops lining the sides of this ocean of traffic looked straight out of a bollywood film set. I knew what I had to do in Jaipur….get to see the not to be missed sights, eat as much I can and romance Jaipur – the way I haven’t romanced any other place; and i did.
‘Jal Mahal’ was like a landscape painted in water colour…the wavery reflection of the palace in the midst of the lake was like a morning dream.
A 20 minutes drive later ’Amber Fort’ (pronounced as Amer) was in sight – built in the 16th century, its a beautiful complex of palaces, halls, pavilions and temples – immortalised in the epic drama ‘Jodha Akbar’. We walked through the maze of hallways and narrow steps that crisscross the complex and was 10 minutes late to reach the foot hill of the complex for the 50 min ‘light and sound’ show that started at 6pm (instead of 6.30 pm). The open air theatre set against the majestic fort was the ideal setting for a cold winter evening show. The fort, the sole actor brought to life in shades of yellow, red and Prussian blue the vibrant history of rajputs and the fort.

On our way back we dropped in at ‘Chokhi Dhani’ – a wholesome package on Rajasthan culture. Ambience was that of a fair with magic shows, puppet show, antique shops, traditional eateries, play areas, mud houses (will never forget what happened inside) and chalets complete this resort. We went for a drink and had karkori kebabs – it just melted. The night was getting colder and we waited in a queue for the traditional Rajasthan thali. Everything about the thali was spicy except the plate and side plates that were made of leaves. Water was served in mud mugs. We had our pictures taken with the turban.
Started day 2 with a visit of the City palace. Didn’t find it special. Outside amongst the chaos of people and traffic there was an old ambassador car parked in the middle of the road with a ‘gori’ model in designer labels lying seductively on the bonnet and cameras flashing while hundreds reined in by ‘Jaipur bouncers’ walled the ambassador. Surprisingly the crowd behaved – am told in Delhi the same shoot would have been greeted with sleazy comments.
Outside the palace we did a bit of shopping and took a guided tour of the ‘Hawa Mahal’. The ‘guide’ came in as a record player (the size of a pin pad) and headphones for Rs 80. The girl at the counter spoke impeccable english with a refined disposition and looked out of place for a medieval Jaipur. We walked around like Siamese twins as we had to share the player - we didn’t complain. A magnificent 5 storey pyramidal building crowned with latticed balconies and miniature domes and covered with delicately sculpted stone jalis – 953 in all. Built in 1799 for the women of the royal household to watch the royal and religious processions without being seen. The King was the only male who was allowed entry. That explains why the structure did not have an entrance from the main road.

We had time only for Nahargarh fort. Set on the densely forested hill top offers a stunning view of the city. The plasterwork on the walls were noteworthy as the finish was so smooth that its indistinguishable from marble. I have lasting memories of the time we spend in the palace corridors, hallways, rooms that looked over the city and the long rocky fort pathways running down the hills. We were indeed romancing …may be just like the Rajputs did centuries ago in the silent cold breezy corners….away from the footsteps echoing in the corridors.
We saw sunset from the fort walls and soon the palace wrapped up in thick darkness. There was not a single light in the palace except the choolas that were lit by the labourers at the basement of the palace to cook their dinner. On our way down the hill, at a distance ‘Jal Mahal’ glittered in the still lake waters. We dined at “Peshawari” at the Sheraton and called it a day.
Jaipur will always remain close to my heart. I romanced like never before - in the unkempt palaces, amidst the noisy and chaotic pink city and while gorging the spicilicious food that Jaipur offered.